LAKES AND VOLCANOES – NEUQUEN AND RIO NEGRO
Dec 20, 2013
Chos Malal – Villa Pehuenia
Odometer km 67507 – 67869
By the time I’m entering the breakfast room, my three Swiss companions from last night are already ready to leave. They will take a tour through the mountains, their destination for the evening is Villa Pehuenia. Before I hit the road as well I have my oil changed at local motorcycle shop and buy a 5 liter fuel canister – I have no appetite for repetition of yesterday’s ordeal!
I’m leaving Chos Malal by 1 PM. Per Raphael’s recommendation I’m supposed to turn right towards El Huecu after traveling only 3-4 km on Route 40. Eight km down the highway I still haven’t seen any road sign, but obviously I must have missed my turn. I return to take the only gravel road I have seen heading West up into the mountains. A few meters in there is an old bent sign telling me that I’m on my way to Parque Tromen. No mention of El Huecu… let’s hope this is the way I’m supposed to go!
Passing near the village of El Cholar about 20 km later is confirming that I’m on the right track. Past El Huecu the road is getting narrower and rougher. I take a ford through a small creek as an invitation to stop and take a refreshing dip in the ice cold water.
A bath for the bike…
…inviting the rider, too!
On the next 50+ km I don’t see a soul. The experience of total solitude amidst the magnificent scenery around the Tromen volcano is exhilarating. A giant petrified lava stream descends the slope of the volcano, ending only about 200m from the road. The naked basalt seems to speak of a recent eruption, but later I learn that the eruption took place about 45,000 years ago. Well, I guess in geological terms that’s still recent…
El Tromen volcano
Lava stream from El Tromen volcano
Can you spot the horses? They give you an idea of the size of the old lava stream
The road skirts the volcano and passes above a wide, shallow lagoon populated with flamingos and other water birds.
Tromen lagoon
Towards Loncopue
Near Loncopue I am returning to pavement and civilization. I’m progressing quickly towards Las Lajas and then West on Route 22 towards Paso Pino Hachado, one of the major border crossings to Chile in this region. A couple km before the border I’m turning left onto a gravel road taking my the remaining 55 km to Villa Pehuenia on the shore of Lake Aluminé.
Lake Aluminé
A popular tourist destination for hiking, water sports and other outdoor adventures, Villa Pehuenia is offering plenty of accommodation options from camping and simple cabanas all the way to luxury resorts. I ride around for a while, check out a hotel located directly above a hidden cove outside of town – beautiful, but expensive – then choose to stay at Los Balcones on the other side of the same little peninsula. More affordable than the first hotel, Los Balcones is still very nice, with lake views at least as beautiful. And guess who’s sitting at one of the tables over looking the lake, having an evening “aperitif”? My three Swiss friends from last night! After “helping” them finish the bottle of Patagonian white, I get a quick shower and meet them to go out for dinner at one of the many local restaurants. We order Bania Cauda, a typical dish from Cordoba – meat and vegetables dipped in a paste containing lots of garlic. At some point during dinner I gladly accept the invitation to join the trio tomorrow for a day of hiking near the Southern end of the lake.
The garlic makes us consume quite a bit of Patagonian Pinot Noir along with our food. The state of affairs towards the end of dinner is best represented by our “scientific” discussion about the way our beds will rotate tonight. Will the alcohol-induced vortex take us in the the same direction as it would on the Northern hemisphere, or is it subject to Corioli’s force, turning us in the opposite direction?
Our laughter draws the attention of an equally merry crowd at the next table. Suddenly we find ourselves sharing champagne and more laughter with Roxane, an attractive Argentine lady, and her extended family.
A merry crowd!
Dec. 21, 2013
Villa Pehuenia
Surprisingly unaffected by Corioli’s force, I’m waking up in decent shape. I meet three smiling faces at the breakfast table, looking out onto a calm, mirror-like Lake Aluminé.
Aboard Raphael’s big Land Cruiser we take the road South towards Aluminé. For a change it’s kind of nice to enjoy the scenery without having to look out for rocks, loose gravel and sand pits.
Comfy!
On our way to the trailhead in Lanin National Park, we stop for a brief walk to one of Raphael’s favorite lookouts onto Lake Pulmari. We stand quiet for minutes, just taking in the silent enchantment of the place, only enhanced by the occasional creak of a water bird.
Pulmari valley
Pulmari valley
Lake Pulmari
A few km further, a wooden sign reminds of the Mapuche’s last battle against the Argentine army in 1883, ending with their definitive surrender.
We park the truck near the hut of the park warden. In the shade of mighty araucarias, the trail follows the lake shore for about half an hour, passing ice cold creeks and small waterfalls along the way. Plenty of opportunities to fill our bottles with the ice cold, crystal-clear water.
Freeezing cold!
The large seeds from the cones of the female araucaria are a main staple of the Mapuche living in this region of the Andes. Their name “Pehuenche” means“ those who eat the Araucaria seeds”.
Araucaria cone
Araucaria seed
Raphael spots a red-headed woodpecker working the rind of one of the trees. All our attempts to take a good picture are frustrated by the bird, who seems to poke fun at us by staying in the shade and always changing position before we get a clear shot. Gotta believe me, its a beautiful bird!
Can you spot the woodpecker?
We are now pulling away from the lake. The trees are standing wider apart, with patches of grass, brush, wildflowers and abundant colihues . These bamboo-like canes stand about 3 meters high, often in large bunches. They only blossom once at the end of their 25- to 40-year lifecycle, produce a huge amount of seeds and then dry out and die. Once set ablaze, these canes can spread wildfires with almost unstoppable speed and force.
Les amis suisses and the colihues
Another hour of gentle ascent gets us to the outlook high above the Cascada Coloco We enjoy the outlook while munching our little hiker’s lunch made of bread, fruit, cheese, tomatoes and delicious locally produced jamón crudo (cured ham).
Cascada Coloco
On our way back we finally get our bird photo. In contrast to the woodpecker, the little green parrot appears to enjoy the attention, curiously watching us from above.
Curious parrot
We return to Villa Pehuenia via Lake Moquehue, arriving just in time for a shower and a little siesta before we have dinner at the hotel.
Dec 22, 2013
Villa Pehuenia – San Carlos de Bariloche
Odometer km 67869 – 68308
After breakfast I say farewell to Raphael, Julie and Alain, thanking them whole-heartedly for letting me be part of their little group for a while. After a few kilometers along the lake shore, I am leaving the lake and follow the gravel road to Rio Aluminé, stopping to take a last look back across the lake towards the snow-capped twin peaks of the Llaima volcano.
Lake Aluminé
Lake Aluminé and Llaima volcano
and through the town of Aluminé, then over arid mountain ridges until the Lanin volcano comes in sight.
Aluminé – Junin
Lupines and other wildflowers, Aluminé – Junin
Aluminé – Junin, view of Lanin volcano
A few km before Junin de los Andes I’m back on paved roads. South of Junin the mountains along Route Route 40 begin to look greener and past San Martin de los Andes I am surrounded by snow-capped peaks, pine forests and lakes.
Lago Lacar
Lago Lacar, near San Martin de los Andes
Lago Espejo (San Martin – Villa La Angostura)
San Martin – Villa La Angostura
San Martin – Villa La Angostura
In Villa La Angostura I reach the northern end of Lake Nahuel Huapi. Attempts to reach my friends in San Carlos de Bariloche via my cell phone remain unsuccessful, so I stop at a café with WiFi to announce my arrival via e-mail.
136 km of well paved road take me to San Carlos de Bariloche at the Southern end of the lake. No idea how I’ll get in touch with my friends, though…
The Petrobras station at the entrance of town has a café with WiFi, so I get my notebook out in order to try my luck on skype. Before I even connect to the web, a young couple in the café, also bikers, is offering help and I am able to speak to my friend Matias via their cell phone. 15 minutes later Matias arrives on a Chinese-made custom bike that looks like a Harley, but with a 250 cc engine. He leads me to the cabana where he lives with his Brazilian girl friend Julia. The rest of the day goes by catching up over spaghetti and a few glasses of wine.
Dec 23, 2013
San Carlos de Bariloche
I spend most of the day at the cabana, resting, doing laundry, writing, chatting with my hosts and watching Matias do miracles in his makeshift car and motorcycle workshop, fixing an old Jeep’s gearbox and the engine of a rickety Renault 4. Unfortunately the internet connection of the house is unstable and I’m unable to connect with Jo, who is now in Buenos Aires and supposed to arrive in Bariloche at 10:15 AM tomorrow.
View of Lake Nahuel Huapi from my friends’ cabaña
Dec 24, 2014
San Carlos de Bariloche
Odometer km 68308 – 68424
I’m at the airport at 10:40 sharp and the flight from Buenos Aires arrives on time. Through the glass doors I can see the passengers trickle in and pick up their luggage from the conveyor belt. But Jo isn’t among them! I have to look around quite a bit to find an Aerolineas Argentinas employee at a check-in computer. I’m relieved to hear that Jo is booked on the next flight, coming in at 2:15 PM.
Upon arrival Jo tells me that she missed her flight because the taxi from the hotel got stuck in traffic. Fortunately, Aerolineas gave her a seat on the next flight without charging a change fee. To catch that flight, however, she had to take another long cab ride across town to the other airport (AEP). Oh well…
We celebrate our reunion of four with a few beers and snacks at a local microbrewery.
Bariloche, with Jo, Matias and Julia
Dec 25, 2014
San Carlos de Bariloche – Llao Llao – San Carlos de Bariloche
Odometer 68424 – 68510
Jo and I go on a local tour to Llao Llao, the Colonia Suiza and the ski station of Cerro Catedral.
Lake Nahuel Huapi at Llao Llao
The Llao Llao resort hotel
At the Colonia we indulge in locally made chocolate and ice cream.
Colonia Suiza. The raspberry ice cream is divine!
Too bad we don’t have the capacity to sample the curanto as well: Meat, potatoes and vegetables cooked on a floor of stones previously heated with a large wood fire. The smell is delicious…
Curanto, Colonia Suiza
Jo in the colihues
Lago Nahuel Huapi
We return the to San Carlos via Lake Gutierrez.
SOUTHBOUND! 
Happy New Year to ya mi,
Thank u for sharing your story and photographs, looks like your having a great time and good for you.
with love,
Rae Rae
Hi Raerae,
A big New Year’s hug to you from the middle of nowhere! Yes I am having a great time 🙂 All the best for 2014!
Love,
Michael
Hallo Muscha
einen dicken Neujahrsknuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuutsch aus good ol’ Germany.
Meggie
I wish I were younger and rich 😉 Although I was just looking for a photo I got hooked and enjoyed the whole post and some more, thank you for sharing your adventures! What I wanted to ask is: would you mind if I use your photo p1010310.jpg on a blog post about Tromen volcano? (Didn’t find a contact link here) I’m writing for “Volcano Hotspot” on WordPress. Good luck on all your roads!
Hi Granyia, thank you for your message. Yes you may use the picture for your blog. Cheers from Lago Maggiore, Italy 🙂
Thank you so much, you can view the post here. Enjoy your time!
Hi Granya, I have just taken a look at your blog and learned quite a bit about Tromen volcano! I guess my source was wrong about the age of the lava flows shown on my picture. I also noticed that you named my blog as the source of second picture, the one of Laguna del Tromen with the bicycle traveler on it. This picture is from somewhere else, you may want to correct that. Cheers, Michael
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